This guide offers a convenient recipe for a pantry puttanesca, which is perfect for those times when you’re in a pinch. It emphasises the importance of keeping staples like capers and olives readily available, as they add a burst of flavour and can elevate any dish. Adding tinned tuna increases the protein content, with fish in springwater being a preferable choice for its nutritional benefits and structure.
When selecting canned fish, it’s important to consider sustainability. Look for labels from the Marine Stewardship Council, and opt for skipjack tuna over species like yellowfin, bluefin or big-eye, which are endangered. For flavour, capers are essential—they’re akin to vegan anchovies and can be bought brined or salted, with the latter offering a more intense taste.
If you don’t have passata, canned tomatoes can be substituted, or even a mix of tomato paste and water will suffice. For a fresher taste, blister some cherry tomatoes alongside olives and capers, adding chilli for extra zing. A pinch of sugar can enhance the sweetness of the tomatoes.
To save on cooking time, consider using fresh pasta like gnocchi, as it cooks much faster than dried varieties. Fresh garlic adds a sharpness to the dish, though if you prefer a milder profile, sauté it with the tomato paste.
To adapt the recipe for a plant-based diet, simply exclude the tuna, substitute olive oil for butter, and use a non-dairy cheese for garnishing.
Pantry Puttanesca Recipe
Serves: 4
Ingredients:
- ½ cup (80g) salted capers, rinsed
- 100g butter
- 150g kalamata olives, pitted
- Pinch of caster sugar
- 1 heaped teaspoon tomato paste
- 3 cups (750ml) tomato passata
- 350g dried pasta (casarecce, penne, etc.)
- Olive oil for drizzling
- 2-3 garlic cloves, peeled
- 400g tinned tuna in springwater, drained
- Finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano for serving
Instructions:
- Boil well-salted water in a large saucepan.
- Fry capers in butter over medium-high heat for 3-4 minutes until crispy. Strain, reserving the butter.
- Add olives and sugar to the pan, sautéing until they blister.
- Stir in the tomato paste and cook for a minute. Then add passata, simmer for 10 minutes.
- Cook pasta, reserving a mug of cooking water. Mix drained pasta with a drizzle of olive oil to avoid sticking.
- Crush garlic, flake in the tuna, and combine with the pasta, adding reserved water until well mixed.
- Serve topped with crispy capers, Parmesan, black pepper, and a drizzle of olive oil.
This recipe, taken from The Joy of Better Cooking by Alice Zaslavsky, is an easy and hearty option for busy days.