Peter Sipeli, a Fijian poet and gay rights advocate, leads a candid walking tour of Suva, Fiji’s bustling capital, highlighting its flaws alongside its charms. “This isn’t a gorgeous city – it’s a broken-down city, but it’s the city of my birth,” he states, reflecting on his love-hate relationship with his hometown. This unvarnished exploration delves into Suva’s complex history, touching on postcolonial challenges, racial tensions, and societal issues, far removed from the picturesque Fiji often showcased in travel brochures.
Sipeli, who came out as a teenager in the early 1990s and faced familial rejection, returned to Suva after residing briefly in New Zealand to advocate for LGBTQ+ rights and establish The Poetry Shop, supporting new writers. While many tourists favour Fiji’s idyllic islands for sun and snorkelling, Sipeli’s tours attract a more niche audience, including professionals working on pressing local issues.
“Suva is the cultural hotspot of the country,” explains Sipeli, as he leads participants through the lively Municipal Market, where a diverse range of vendors reflects the city’s multiculturalism—home to Indigenous Fijians, Indo-Fijians, and various Asian communities. He cautions against assuming harmony among these groups, indicating underlying tensions and issues of racism that complicate everyday life in Fiji.
Along the tour, contrasting sights emerge—from vibrant market scenes to the bustling streets, starkly different from the serene beaches promoted in tourist materials. Sipeli critiques the performative hospitality often encountered in resorts, explaining that such superficiality obscures the region’s genuine character.
The tour incorporates a variety of landmarks and experiences, including a serene 1926 cathedral where locals gather for Sunday service. Sipeli’s narrative offers glimpses into everyday life, from discovering local food stalls known for their delicious offerings to exploring the cultural implications of various establishments.
Sipeli’s guided experiences extend beyond walking tours to include art, women’s issues, bird watching, and even nightlife, showcasing the city’s multifaceted identity. Despite his poetic inclinations, he points out the beauty of Fijian language, sometimes translating poignant expressions into English during the tour, revealing a deeper cultural richness.
Through his tours, Sipeli aims to foster a deeper understanding of Suva—a city imbued with both vibrancy and struggle. Each outing serves as not just a touristic venture but an invitation to engage with and reflect on the complexities of his city and its communities.